"When you're surfing Jaws, let's say you're moving at about 35mph, sometimes faster. The wave is moving towards the beach, which slightly increases your speed. So you're probably moving through the ambient air at 45. And the wind is blowing 30. You're moving through the air at 70mph. That's a lotta wind. Water is a thousand times more dense [than air]. [The surfboard] moves through the air much easier than it moves through the water, so get it up outa the water. Not too high though, cause then aerodynamics is gonna take affect."
"How do you shape for those conditions?" (Christian Beamish)
"These are people's lives. If you're shaping one of these boards for big Jaws, it's that guy's life. You have to think of everything. Take everything into consideration. And cross all your T's and dot all your I's."
This quote is taken from the Shape Heroes Forum at the Sonoma Valley Museum of Art on July 16, 2016. The Shape Heroes Forum was an event in conjunction with the Surf Craft Exhibit. Panelists included: Danny Hess, William "Stretch" Reidel, Griffin Stepanek, Joh Wegener, and Dave Parmenter. Moderated by Christian Beamish.